In December everyone wants to look festive. This winter's question: wearable glamour with loose waves, and finger waves for New Year's Eve. A setting treatment serves both. It also works for short and medium-length hair, where an updo or low ponytail isn't an option. And it fits into a busy schedule, provided you plan smartly.
Why setting works in the salon now
A pin curl set consists of three phases: setting, drying, and finishing. Only setting and finishing require your hands. The dryer does the drying. This makes the treatment appealing during a busy week.
Working time: plan in three blocks
- Setting. According to industry sources, this takes well over half an hour, depending on length and thickness.
- Drying under the dryer. Sources mention approximately forty-five minutes to an hour. Start with hair that is not too wet: this reduces drying time.
- Finishing. Remove the clips, brush out, add shine and hold.
A suggestion for scheduling: use the drying time for another client. Schedule that client so you are free again when the set is dry. Only remove the clips when the hair is completely dry. A set that still contains moisture will fall flat and become frizzy. You don't want that for a client going to a party.
Technique 1: soft waves with crossed pins
- Towel-dry the hair, not soaking wet. Apply setting lotion or mousse thoroughly to every strand, for example Imago Pro Setting Strong or Pure Building Mousse.
- Work in horizontal layers from the neck upwards. A small section creates a tight curl, a larger section creates softer movement.
- The direction of the curl determines the pattern. Alternate rows for S-waves.
- Secure each curl with two crossed bobby pins. Do not press across the closed loop: this creates creases that are difficult to remove.
- After drying, remove the clips from the bottom up, loosen with your fingers, and brush out the waves with a soft brush if necessary.
Note: some vintage stylists prefer working with clips rather than bobby pins, as bobby pins can leave creases. Work carefully and flat.
Technique 2: finger waves for New Year's Eve
- Hair between wet and towel-dry, combed through. Deep side part.
- Use plenty of product. Using too little product is the most common mistake. Choose a smooth mousse over a hard gel so the hair does not dry out before you are finished. Consider Indola Strong Mousse or Imago Styling Gel Mousse.
- Comb back and forth into an S-shape and hold each wave with two fingers. For longer hair, secure with clips while working.
- Is the hair drying too quickly? Lightly mist with water again and add extra product.
- Let it dry completely, then fix with a strong hairspray, such as Indola Strong Lacquer.
Freshly washed hair holds the shape less effectively. Ask the client not to wash it right before the appointment. New to finger waves? Practice on a mannequin head before the busy season begins.
Finishing
A little serum or oil separates the curls and adds shine, for example Indola Finishing Smooth Serum or Indola Glamorous Oil. Then apply a mist of hairspray, such as Indola Flexible Hairspray.
Upselling: repeating the look at home
Christmas in the salon, New Year's Eve at home. Give the client a set to take home:
- bobby pins, such as Hair Bobby Pins Box 250g
- a mousse, such as Imago Styling Brushing Mousse
- a hairspray, such as Imago Styling Hairspray Extra Strong
Briefly explain how it works at home: lightly damp hair, roll it flat, use two crossed bobby pins, and let it dry overnight. Place the set in a display at the checkout. This turns a treatment into a sales opportunity.
Frequently asked questions
How do I set finger waves with water wave clips?
Work on hair between wet and towel-dry, with a deep side part. Apply plenty of mousse or setting lotion; a smooth mousse dries less quickly than hard gel. Comb back and forth into an S-shape, hold each wave with two fingers, and secure with clips while working. Lightly mist with water again as it dries. Let it dry completely and fix with strong hairspray.
How do I schedule a setting treatment with a dryer on a busy day around the holidays?
Break the treatment down into setting, drying, and finishing. According to industry sources, setting takes well over half an hour and drying under the dryer approximately forty-five minutes to an hour. Use that drying time for another client, for example. Start with hair that is not too wet and only remove the clips when everything is completely dry.
What products should I give a client to recreate pin curls at home?
The basics are bobby pins, a mousse or setting lotion, and a hairspray. Optionally, add a leave-in treatment and a serum or oil for shine. A tail comb, a water spray bottle, and a hairnet or silk scarf for overnight use are also useful at home. Briefly explain the steps so they can recreate the look themselves on New Year's Eve.